Wine Review: A Special Tasting – Gaja, Barbaresco DOC 1967

Gaja, Barbaresco DOC 1967The wine we are going to review today was certainly quite a treat: last month, my good friend Anatoli (who pens the Talk-A-Vino wine blog) and other friends came over for dinner and I decided time was right to open a bottle that had been sitting around for a while: Gaja, Barbaresco DOC 1967.

This post tells the story of that experience. For a different take on it (plus other wines we had that night), check out Anatoli’s post on his blog.

But let’s get to it.

The Bottom Line

Overall, Gaja’s 1967 Barbaresco was a spectacular treat to taste after 48 years of aging: a true testament to the longevity and age-worthiness of a wonderful, albeit difficult, grape variety such as Nebbiolo. Even after so many years spent in the bottle, the wine was still an outstanding performer and still retained much of its fruity aromas and flavors and enough acidity to keep it alive and kicking. It was wonderfully evolved, with a complex aromatic profile (ripe cherry, dried roses, sweet tobacco, cigar box, cocoa, soil, forest floor and mineral hints), great flavors and sapidity and a long, lingering finish: an amazing experience.

Rating: Outstanding  Outstanding – $$$$$

(Explanation of our Rating and Pricing Systems)

About the Grape

Nebbiolo is without a doubt Piemonte’s most world-famous black-berried grape variety. Researchers have recently been able to trace back the origins of (or at least the first documented reference to) Nebbiolo to 1266, at which time the grape was called Nibiol. This makes Nebbiolo one of the oldest grape varieties in Piemonte. While Nebbiolo is definitely an Italian indigenous variety, doubts still remain as to whether it originated from Piemonte or Valtellina (a mountainous district in the neighboring region of Lombardia, where Nebbiolo is still grown nowadays and locally known as Chiavennasca – pronounced “key-a-vennasca“).

The name Nebbiolo comes from the Italian word “nebbia” (fog) – some say because of the fog that in late Fall generally enshrines Piemonte’s hills where Nebbiolo is grown. Nowadays, three main different Nebbiolo clones have been identified: (i) Nebbiolo Lampia; (ii) Nebbiolo Michet; and (iii) Nebbiolo Rosé. Interestingly enough, however, DNA profiling has shown that, while Lampia and Michet have identical DNA profiles, Rosé does not share the same profile, which has recently led to consider Nebbiolo Rosé a different grape variety altogether rather than a clone of Nebbiolo.

Nebbiolo is a late-ripening, very finicky variety in terms of the terroir it requires to produce quality wine, which means that Nebbiolo successfully grows only in very few places on the face of the earth – Piemonte and Valtellina sure being two of them, along with certain of California’s AVA’s.

Nebbiolo grapes generally have robust tannins and high acidity, which make it a variety that is very suitable for long-term aging.

In Italy, Nebbiolo’s best expressions occur in the northern regions of Piemonte and Lombardia.

More specifically, in Piemonte these include outstanding varietal wines such as those produced in the well-known Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG appellations (which encompass different territories adjacent to the town of Cuneo) as well as non-varietal wines in the lesser known but also solid appellations Gattinara DOCG, (which requires for its wines 90% or more Nebbiolo grapes), Ghemme DOCG (which requires for its wines 85% or more Nebbiolo grapes) and Boca DOC (which requires for its wines 70% to 90% Nebbiolo grapes), which all encompass different areas adjacent to the town of Novara, where Nebbiolo is locally known as “Spanna“.

In Lombardia, outstanding varietal Nebbiolo wines can be found in the Valtellina Superiore DOCG and Sforzato della Valtellina DOCG appellations in Lombardia’s mountainous Valtellina district (where Nebbiolo is locally known as “Chiavennasca“).

(Information on the grape variety taken from Wine Grapes, by Robinson-Harding-Vouillamoz, Allen Lane 2012 – for more information about grape varieties, check out our Grape Variety Archive)

About the Appellation

Piemonte’s Barbaresco appellation was created as a DOC in 1966 (just one year before the vintage of the Gaja bottle that we are reviewing) and was promoted to DOCG status in 1980.

The Barbaresco appellation is reserved to red wines made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes grown in the territory adjacent to the towns of Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and the village of San Rocco Senodelvio, all in the Cuneo district.

The Barbaresco DOCG regulations require that Barbaresco base wines be aged for at least 26 months, at least 9 months of which in wooden barrels, whilst Barbaresco Riserva wines be aged for at least 50 months, at least 9 months of which in wooden barrels.

About the Producer and the Estate

Gaja is one of the heavyweights in the high-end segment of Italian wine, so much so that Angelo Gaja (the man that has been running this powerhouse winery since 1961) has been described by the LA Times as “the undisputed King of Barbaresco“.

He is best known for certain of Gaja’s signature labels, most of which revolve around the Nebbiolo variety, from the 100% Nebbiolo “Barbaresco DOCG” (such as the one that we are reviewing) to certain experimental Nebbiolo-Barbera blends that Angelo Gaja created under the looser rules of the “Langhe Nebbiolo DOC” appelation, which for its wines only requires the use of 85% or more of Nebbiolo grapes (unlike the Barbaresco DOCG appellation which requires 100%). These blends include the single-vineyard “Langhe Nebbiolo Sorì Tildin DOC” (95% Nebbiolo, 5% Barbera), “Langhe Nebbiolo Sorì San Lorenzo DOC” (95% Nebbiolo, 5% Barbera), “Langhe Nebbiolo Costa Russi DOC” (95% Nebbiolo, 5% Barbera), and “Langhe Nebbiolo Sperss DOC” (94% Nebbiolo, 6% Barbera). Retail prices for Gaja reds range from about $150 to $400 and more.

The Gaja lineup also comprises a few white wines made from international varieties, such as coveted “Langhe Chardonnay Gaia & Rey DOC” (100% Chardonnay) and “Langhe Sauvignon Alteni di Brassica DOC” (100% Sauvignon Blanc).

The Gaja estate was founded in 1859 by Angelo Gaja’s great-grandfather Giovanni Gaja and has stayed within the Gaja family ever since. Nowadays, it encompasses 92 HA of vineyards in the areas adjacent to the town of Barbaresco in Piemonte’s Cuneo district. Total annual production is about 350,000 bottles.

Our Detailed Review

Those bottles of the wine that we are going to review, Gaja, Barbaresco DOC 1967, that are still available in the US retail for about $300.

Gaja’s 1967 Barbaresco was 13.2% ABV and was made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes.

As usual, for my reviews I will use a simplified version of the ISA wine tasting protocol that we described in a previous post: should you have doubts as to any of the terms used below please refer to that post for a refresher. For your own structured wine tastings, consider downloading our FsT Wine Tasting Chart!

In the glass, the wine was rusty red and viscous.

On the nose, it was intense, complex and fine with aromas of ripe cherry, dried roses, sweet tobacco, cigar box, cocoa, soil, forest floor and mineral hints.

In the mouth, the wine was dry, with high ABV and smooth; it was moderately acidic, tannic, tasty. It was full-bodied and balanced, with intense and fine flavors of spirited tart cherry, rhubarb, and hints of blood orange. It had a long finish and its evolutionary state was mature.

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About Stefano

I am a photographer and an ISA certified sommelier. I contribute to two blogs, Flora's Table (the fine cooking and wine blog - www.florastable.com) and Clicks & Corks (my photography and wine blog - www.clicksandcorks.com). My photography Web site is at www.LightQuill.com
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16 Responses to Wine Review: A Special Tasting – Gaja, Barbaresco DOC 1967

  1. talkavino says:

    Excellent review, Stefano, lots of good information! Thank you again for sharing such a special wine!

    • Stefano says:

      Thank you, Anatoli – glad you enjoyed the read.
      And let me tell you, I could not have enjoyed that bottle more than by sharing it with you guys! 🙂

  2. Stefano says:

    Reblogged this on Clicks & Corks and commented:

    Read on Flora’s Table the whole story behind a special wine tasting: Gaja, Barbaresco DOC 1967! Tasting notes, grape variety information, facts about the Gaja estate and much more.
    Check it out! 🙂

  3. Pingback: Wine Review: A Special Tasting – Gaja, Barbaresco DOC 1967 | Clicks & Corks

  4. chefconnie says:

    Thanks for sharing. I can live this experience and gain knowledge through you since I cannot afford a $300.00 bottle of wine. Lovely post with great information. Really!

    • Stefano says:

      Thank you, Chef Connie, for stopping by and for your kind comments.
      Laying my hands on such an expensive bottle of wine doesn’t happen often to me either, but those rare occasions are sure special to me! Having said that, there is plenty of excellent wine out there that we can all enjoy without breaking the bank, and this is good! 🙂

  5. sabine says:

    What an extraordinary wine experience, and very generous of you to share the precious bottle with your friends!

    • Stefano says:

      Thank you, Sabine: I am glad you enjoyed the read. Like I said in my reply to Anatoli’s comment, there would be no better occasion to enjoy that bottle than sharing it with some good friends who can appreciate it. 🙂

  6. Well written with lots of useful info. I just dream of tasting that bottle

  7. Dina says:

    This is an excellent review, Stefano. I assume ‘ll never be able to taste this precious wine, but I thoroughly enjoyed reading your tasting experience. Cheers!! 🙂
    Big hug from the Four of us,
    Dina x

    • Stefano says:

      Thank you very much, dear Dina: it really was a very special tasting experience. 🙂 I am glad that you enjoyed the read!
      Big hugs right back at the Fab Four! 🙂
      Stefano

  8. Wow Stefano, that was indeed a special treat. I am so pleased, for you, that the wine lived up to its expectations as there is always a risk when opening a wine that has spend so long in the bottle. It was good of you to share it with your friend and fellow wine lover. 😉

    • Stefano says:

      Dear B, thank you for your note – it was a very special tasting indeed, and a good thing that, as you pointed out, the cork held up so well after all those years! Plus, good wine in my view is meant to be shared with those friends who can appreciate it. I just wish we lived somewhat closer and you could take part in our wine tastings! 🙂

  9. laurasmess says:

    Amazing. I’d never have the opportunity to try something of that vintage, but I’m loving the fact that I get to experience it through your tasting notes Stefano. What an incredible wine… I am so glad that it lived up to expectations after such a long time in the cellar! A little story – my husband kept a bottle of wine for ten years for us to drink on our wedding day. We carried it to the wedding venue, rather excited despite the fact that it hadn’t been cellared properly (it was a 15 year old wine that was mostly kept at the bottom of a young man’s cupboard in a domestic house, haha). Due to the festivities, the wine was forgotten during the reception and we didn’t get an opportunity to sit down together and drink it until the day after we were married. Before we left the venue (we had stayed overnight) Aaron went to retrieve it from the catering area but… he couldn’t find it! So I will forever be wondering what happened to that wine (we think that one of the staff possibly stole it) AND whether it would’ve been a bottle full of red vinegar or something truly delicious. We have consumed many bottles together since… but that one will forever remain a mystery!
    Back to your post – so glad that this precious bottle was shared amongst good friends 🙂

    • Stefano says:

      Thank you so much for your comment, dear Laura! Yes, it is amazing how well the cork held up after all those years (luckily!) Thank you also for telling the story of that special bottle: it’s sad that it disappeared the way it did and that it is bound to remain a mystery for the two of you…
      Thanks again and good to hear from you, my friend! 🙂

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