Chronicle of a French Wine Country Trip: Saint Emilion

Saint Emilion
: View of the town

Saint Emilion: the bell tower of the Monolithic ChurchFrancesca and I have recently spent a few days in France, at Saint Emilion, in the heart of one of the most renowned among the Bordeaux wine districts and appellations. There we have enjoyed the courteous hospitality of a fellow blogger (more on that later, on a dedicated post), the culture and the beauty of those places, a lot of good food and wine and of course the magic of the Bordeaux wine country and its multitude of Chateaux.

This post is the first in a series that will take you with us, if only virtually, to visit Saint Emilion and its surroundings and discover some of the attractions that such area has to offer.

Saint Emilion: The Monolithic Church and its bell tower

Saint Emilion: 
La Porte de la Cadene (the Door of the Chain)

We will start by showing you the town of Saint Emilion and telling you something about its rich history on this post, then on future posts we will show you one of its churches, we will talk about the wine country and the Saint Emilion wine classification system, we will take you to a beautiful nearby village and to a full-blown visit of our gracious host’s residence, we will make you visit a lively food market, we will take you food and wine shopping in Saint Emilion, and of course we will visit a few Chateaux and talk about their wines… Yes, it will be a fairly extensive trip, but don’t worry, we will take a break here and there with posts on different subjects, but we think it will be worth your time! 😉

Saint Emilion: 
La Maison du Vin and the bell tower of the Monolithic Church

Saint Emilion: The bell tower of the Monolithic Church

Now, without further ado let’s talk a bit about the town of Saint Emilion.

Saint Emilion is a beautiful, elegant small town located in the Libournais area, on the right bank of the Dordogne River, not far from Bordeaux. Saint Emilion’s long history goes back to the Roman times, and precisely to the IV century when the Roman ruler Decimus Magnus Ausonius (after whom the famous Chateau Ausone, one of the four Premier Grand Cru Classé “A” wineries, was named) erected a property there, where he eventually retired. Incidentally, it was the Romans who got the long-standing Saint Emilion wine tradition started by introducing viticulture to the region.

The beauty of the Saint Emilion landscape and its wine-making history have won the area UNESCO status of World Heritage Site for its being an “outstanding example of an historic vineyard landscape that has survived intact and in activity to the present day”.

Saint Emilion: Les Grandes Murailles (the Big Wall) and the vineyards of Chateau Les Grandes Murailles

Saint Emilion: 
a "tertre" (steep alley) and a pastry shop

Saint Emilion is a town of steep alleys known as “tertres, winding narrow streets, pleasant squares dotted by bistros as well as several food and wine stores, beautiful Medieval buildings and ancient churches built in the yellowish local limestone, and hectares and hectares of lush vineyards.

Probably the focal point of the town revolves around the central Place de l’Eglise Monolithe: this square borrows its name from the homonymous Monolithic Church, the largest underground church in Europe, that was dug out of Saint Emilion’s limestone rock walls by Benedictine monks between the IX and the XII century. The Monolithic Church’s finely sculpted portal dates back to the XIV century and presents scenes inspired by the Last Judgment and the resurrection.

Saint Emilion: 
ancient buildings in town

Saint Emilion: detail of the Place de l'Eglise Monolithe and portal of the Monolithic ChurchUnderneath the Monolithic Church lie the Benedictine catacombs and the Hermitage, an underground cave where Saint Emilion himself (an VIII century Benidctine monk called Emilian, who became the town’s patron saint) is believed to have spent the last years of his life, from 750 to 767. There visitors can see an underground spring that was used for baptismal water, a bed and meditation seat both carved in rock, and graffiti reportedly dating back to the French Revolution. Above the Monolithic Church stands an imposing 53 mt/174 ft tall bell tower that was built between the XII and the XV century, while to the side of the church is the XIII century Chapelle de la Trinité (Trinity Chapel) hosting well preserved frescoes on the walls of its apse.

Saint Emilion: The Eglise Collegiale and the bell tower of the Monolithic Church

Saint Emilion: La Maison de la Cadene (House of the Chain) and la Porte de la Cadene (Door of the Chain)The inside of the Monolithic Church and the complex comprising the catacombs, the Hermitage and the Trinity Chapel can only be accessed and visited through a guided tour operated by the tourist office and, unfortunately, photography is not permitted anywhere within the complex – so here you will only be able to see images of the outside of the complex.

Other notable monuments in Saint Emilion are the Romanesque Eglise Collegiale (Collegiate Church) and its XIV century cloister (this will be the subject of another post), the complex of the Maison de la Cadene and the Porte de la Cadene (House of the Chain and Door of the Chain) located at the top of a steep tertre and dating back to the XVI century, and Les Grandes Murailles (the Big Wall) which are the last remains of what used to be a XIII century Benedictine monastery that collapsed for the most part and are now immersed in the vineyards of the homonymous Chateau Les Grandes Murailles, one of the 63 Grand Cru Classé wineries in the Saint Emilion wine classification.

Saint Emilion: 
elegant building in Rue des Ecoles

Saint Emilion: the bell tower of the Monolithic ChurchTypical of Saint Emilion are also several pastry shops selling two local specialties: the Macarons (delicious almond-based cookies) and the Canelé (small, chewy sweets with a caramelized sugar outside and a core of rum-infused custard).

Enough for today: I hope you enjoyed this first stop in our Saint Emilion trip and our general overview of the town – stay tuned for the next chapters of our chronicle! 🙂

Saint Emilion: Restaurant tables at Place de l'Eglise Monolithe

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0 thoughts on “Chronicle of a French Wine Country Trip: Saint Emilion

  1. Pingback: Saint Emilion Chronicles #7, Part I: A Visit to Chateau Figeac | Flora's Table

  2. lapetitecasserole

    Ciao! avendo navigato nel vostro blog suppongo di potervi scrivere in Italiano… vi ho scovati girovando qua e là… ho letto la vostra storia, coincidenza n.1 anche io sono nel novero degli italiani all’estero (Canada), e chiaramente mi sono incuriosita, poi quando ho letto pure che siete stati a Saint Emilion recentemente (io ci sono stata 1 mese fa) mi sono di getto iscritta al vostro blog ed ho inviato a scrivere questo commento… complimenti per il blog e per l’idea a monte della condivisione! a presto, Margherita.

    1. Stefano Post author

      Ciao Margherita!
      Grazie mille per il tuo commento e per essere entrata in contatto!
      Sí, Francesca ed io siamo italiani e viviamo in Connecticut. Tu dove sei in Canada?
      Spero che tu sia stata bene a Saint Emilion: a noi è piaciuta sotto tutti i punti di vista.
      Il tuo blog è bellissimo ed elegante: complimenti anche per le fotografie che sono di ottima qualitá, per non parlare ovviamente delle ricette che sono interessanti e squisite. Hai fatto un gran bel lavoro.
      Ci siamo entrambi iscritti al tuo blog e siamo felici di seguirti nel tuo percorso culinario! 🙂
      Ciao e a presto,

  3. Pingback: Saint Emilion Chronicles #6: Chateau de Ferrand, a Visit and a Wine Review | Flora's Table

  4. Pingback: Saint Emilion Chronicles #5: Saint Emilion and its Wine Appellations | Flora's Table

  5. Pingback: Saint Emilion Chronicles #2: Collegiate Church & Cloisters | Flora's Table

    1. Stefano Post author

      Grazie mille per la visita e per il tuo gentilissimo commento, Miss Fletcher!
      In realtà è stata Francesca a visitare il tuo blog: quando me lo ha detto l’ho fatto anch’io ed è davvero bellissimo, tanto che ora ti seguo – complimenti di cuore per una splendida iniziativa!
      Un caro saluto

    1. Stefano Post author

      Merci beaucoup pour ton gentils mots, Sylvie. Not sure it is 100% right, but I tried! 😉 I am glad that you liked the images and that they brought up a moment of nostalgia. Yes, France is a beautiful country, plus the food and the wine and… 😉

    1. Stefano Post author

      Thank you very much for your kind words and meaningful comment: it makes me happy because it shows that I accomplished what I was aiming for (taking you on a virtual trip to Saint Emilion)! 🙂

  6. Fig & Quince

    What a beautiful and vivacious post – it totally triggers the wanderlust yearnings. I can’t wait to read the story of your good blogger friend & out of all the beautiful shots, loved the unexpected jolt of perspective and B&W of the last shot – my favorite- what a cool, fun picture! I’m happy this is a first in a series. Look forward to it.

    1. Stefano Post author

      Thank you very much for your kind words and articulate comment, Azita!
      I am glad you enjoyed the read and the images. 🙂 Stay tuned for the post on the beautiful B&B we stayed at that is run by a fellow blogger. His property is quite something!
      And thank you for sharing your thoughts on the last shot! I like it a lot too because, just like you said, it is an unusual perspective – sort of like an aerial of a French outside restaurant. 🙂

    1. Stefano Post author

      Thank you, Chef Mimi: glad you liked the images. I think if you go to Saint Emilion you will not be disappointed in any respect (beauty of the land/town, culture, food, WINE!) 🙂